A Year in Dakar

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Out with the Old ....



quoted on the internet - This gargantuan billboard for (former) President Wade, overlooked the beach and a main motorway in Dakar. Luckily for (incoming) President Macky, square centimetres of billboard space does not necessarily translate into votes.

 In with the New...


Sunday was the 2nd round of voting for the country to finalize the outcome for the presidential election.  The day was calm. All the contentious energy had been expended with the riots in the first round. We are still amazed that we saw the unfolding of those riots right outside our door. The results of that first round eliminated 13 opposition candidates down to 1 - Macky Sall.  With all the opposition support behind Macky - it was up to the Senegalese people to declare their intentions. The polls closed at 8:00 and we turned on the television to watch one of the 4 channels we get.  At around 9:30 this ticker came across the tv screen and from what I could translate - I "thought" it was saying that Abdoulaye Wade had contacted Macky Sall to congratulate him. It was showing numbers already coming in - in favor of Macky Sall - 3 to 1. Just about that same time we started hearing honking and hollering. And some firecrackers. We decided to investigate - thinking maybe there would be people congregating at The Place de L'Independance but as we walked to the end of our street and looked over - it was actually quite empty. All the 'excitement' we saw on the tv was taking place in another neighborhood where Mr Sall lives - to be expected of course. However, at that corner was a night guard for a building listening to the news. I think his smile speaks for itself.


The following day I captured a number of newspapers at the kiosk.



And on Monday - while walking around - while I may not have understood anything in Wolof or very fast speaking French - you could always catch either the name Macky or Wade - yes the change in presidency was the talk of the country!  We don't quite understand when if any - an inauguration takes place and in what form the 'title' is officially handed over - but we'll keep you posted. If anything I had better get a t-shirt in the market to commemorate the occasion.

*********************
(story from the NY Times)

A Turbulence-Free Election in Senegal

Issouf Sanogo/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Supporters of Macky Sall were celebrating his lead in early counting.

By ADAM NOSSITER -Published: March 25, 2012
DAKAR, Senegal — The elderly president of this West African nation conceded defeat after elections here on Sunday, a rare example of a prompt and peaceful political turnover in a region tormented by coups and leaders who refuse to give up power.

President Abdoulaye Wade headed to cast his ballot in Dakar on Sunday.
The challenger, Macky Sall, and his wife, Marieme Faye, cast their votes on Sunday.
Election workers tallied votes at a polling station in the Medina neighborhood of Dakar, Senegal.
For months, the president, Abdoulaye Wade, who has been in office since 2000, had appeared to be going the route of his regional peers in proclaiming his invincibility and seeking a third term in defiance of a constitutional limit of two.
But that quest appears to have failed. The Senegalese Press Agency reported Sunday night that Mr. Wade had called his opponent, Macky Sall, a onetime protégé of his and a former prime minister, to congratulate him on his apparent victory at around 9:30 p.m. local time.
The seaside neighborhood around Mr. Sall’s house rang out with the cheers of his supporters, loud horns and blaring music. State television — hitherto a propaganda machine for Mr. Wade — showed scenes of jubilant crowds packing the streets downtown here in the capital to celebrate Mr. Sall’s victory.
Mr. Wade’s attempt to cling to power — the latest in a succession of such efforts by West African leaders — had aroused fierce opposition in this small coastal nation with a tradition of playing by democratic rules.
The runup to the first round of voting in February had been punctuated by protests, which were small in scale but determined, and marked by a large coalition of opposition politicians vowing to unseat the president.
In addition, Mr. Wade’s age — he is at least 85 but probably older and is among the last of the independence-era African politicians still active — had provoked Senegal’s youths into an independent opposition movement that coalesced around fiercely critical rap songs. Two of this nation’s defining characteristics — its young population and its distinctive musical culture — were mobilized against Mr. Wade, who showed increasing authoritarian tendencies.
As a result, Mr. Sall had been favored for weeks to beat Mr. Wade in Sunday’s second round of voting.
Mr. Sall, a 50-year-old geologist-engineer who is as subdued as Mr. Wade is flamboyant, finished second in the first round, with 26.6 percent to Mr. Wade’s 34.8 percent.
But more than a dozen other contenders had united behind Mr. Sall, urging their followers to vote for the challenger, and analysts had not expected the president to increase his first-round total enough to defeat the man whose early political ascent he had nurtured.
As it has often done in the past, Senegal seemed once again, on Sunday, to be providing a calm lesson in democracy to its turbulent peers in the region. Mr. Wade apparently wasted no time in conceding defeat. Just last week, a troubled neighbor that seemed to have righted itself democratically over the last two decades, Mali, appeared to tumble back into military dictatorship following a successful coup.
Senegal is one of the few nations on the continent never to have experienced a military coup. At least twice in its history, the military had an easy opportunity to seize power. But it did not do so, and the army here is considered firmly in the democratic camp. In addition, free elections have been held here since the late 19th century.
Definitive results from the second round of voting are not expected until later in the week, but already Sunday night Mr. Sall was heavily outscoring Mr. Wade in numerous polling places, according to the official Senegalese press agency. Mr. Sall even defeated Mr. Wade in the latter’s own voting station in one of the capital’s upscale neighborhoods, by nearly four to one, according to the press agency. Politics here is often a matter of unswerving loyalty and unquestioned allegiances, and Mr. Sall earned an exile in the political wilderness when he violated those codes. On Sunday, he appeared to have gained revenge — a prospect savored in recent weeks by the protest movement.
Stolid, soft-spoken and deliberate, and from a working-class background in the provinces, Mr. Sall angered Mr. Wade nearly five years ago when, as his hand-picked president of the National Assembly, he summoned Mr. Wade’s influential son, Karim, to explain himself over the management of a grandiose Islamic conference here in the capital.
“He told me, ‘That was a political error, and political errors must be paid in cash,’ ” Mr. Sall recalled in an interview at his home last month, describing how the incident had led to his dismissal.
Mr. Sall is promising a more subdued style of governing, less spending on prestige projects of limited value to a largely impoverished population, a strict limit of two terms and greater attention to agriculture. Most Senegalese work in the country’s fields and farms, yet it still imports most of its food, partly because Mr. Wade has neglected agriculture in favor of spending on new highways and a modern airport, among other things.
“The current administration wastes a lot of money,” Mr. Sall said in an interview on Saturday. “I’m for a style of governance that is more sober and efficient.” In addition, institutions such as the Parliament and the judiciary have largely been rubber stamps for Mr. Wade. Mr. Sall promised a change, “a new republic, in which the equilibrium between institutions is respected.”
Mr. Wade, who is French-educated with numerous university degrees, had at least 200 ministers over the course of his 12-year rule, six prime ministers and was sharply criticized for projects like spending $27 million on a towering statue to the “African Renaissance” on a hill overlooking Dakar.
“Senegal, in a transparent election, has proven once again that it is and remains a great democracy, a great country,” Mr. Wade’s press secretary said in a statement Sunday announcing his concession.
Quietly, Mr. Sall criticized his former mentor’s grandiose style — long motorcades of expensive cars, a new state airplane, big-ticket spending — in the interview in his home last month. He suggested the contrast with his own style would be evident.
“His problem is organization,” Mr. Sall said. “He doesn’t adjust his ideas to reality. He’s a dreamer, and he thinks he’s the most brilliant of all the chiefs of state.”
Disillusion with Mr. Wade and his high-spending entourage was evident at polling places in the capital Sunday.
“They live in luxury, and we are struggling,” said Ibrahim Diedhiou, a shipping agent who was voting at a school in the seaside Mermoz neighborhood. “They do nothing to create jobs,” he said, alluding to an unemployment rate Find Friends that in some estimates surpasses 50 percent.
“We must have a break with this immobilism,” said another voter, Amadou Mustapha Gaye, a secretary to a school principal. “Wade is stubborn. He’s built some bridges, but our measure of development is potable water. We gave him everything. And now he’s hung on for 12 years.”
Posted by A Year in Dakar at 8:49 AM No comments:
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Monday, March 26, 2012

Prohibited! Prohibited!


“In any moment of decision, the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.”
Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919);
26th U.S. President

************ 
(little warning - this blog post may be slightly uncomfortable to read - but it contains courage too - but not from us)

When we first started at Sainte Jeanne D'Arc - we were 'given a heads up' by friends back home about the French system (who were familiar with it) in terms of how one drops kids off at the gate and that's where your involvement ends. We did honestly think it might be different here since we were in Africa - but it's not. Because of that dynamic engaging with parents requires more creative ways individually. I'm not sure whether to say we are sad or disappointed or just making an observation -  recognizing that for us  the sense of school community never seemed to materialize.


Which leads me to mention that Ecole Bilingue - Parker and Addison's school back in Berkeley - from our view - has a strong, warm, unique and welcoming community relationship with parents, students, administrative staff and teachers - of which we will certainly look forward to embracing upon our return.

Putting that aside, Parker and Addison have made friends and we know the education is a very good one. And we also know beyond the school itself - the parts that make up the whole are the entire year's adventure and global experience we are having.




At the start of the school year there was clearly a learning curve for us all - an indoctrination on how things work "school-wise" as Addison would come home on occasion and be told he had to re-copy a paragraph or multiplication table 5x or even 10x. No, Parker never seemed to get this same type of  'assignment' - he did have a different teacher.  In some cases the task was short and sweet. Other times it was long and painful for Addison to be on top of other work he had - not to mention trying to settle into being the new kid on the block - in Dakar/Senegal/Africa.  We tried to seek out a few parents who could explain this 'exercise' to us of which we were told that it was 'punishment' for behavior <whether disruptive or not up to speed>. It was clear parents we were able to communicate with on this subject did not agree with the method but no one seemed to take a stand for change.  Clearly there must be more productive or useful exercises that would have some learning value than wasting time copying for the sake of copying!  (Yes - it was explained - that's just how it's always been here).  Of course, at first we thought who are we to question this or even talk to the school on this topic?  It's an interesting higher degree equation of African, French, Senegalese, Catholic, and developing world culture.

So now we know fast or slow, real or perceived disruptions are a red flag for 'punishment'.  Eventually things did settle down.  And we opted to take up the suggestion by Addison's teacher that she come and do some tutoring. Seems to be a thing all kids do here.  (Maybe it's because they don't go to school all day? I have no clue but we figured it couldn't hurt). So with these weekly tutoring sessions (both Parker and Addison) we were able to get to know the teacher (Madame S.) a bit better - and she was able to get to know us better too! And we do think it helped bring them along in their classes.

During the week of March 11th we found out that the Madame S was attending a conference and that the secondary teacher, Madame G, 'moved to the head of the class' and used some new (old?) techniques to discipline the children.  Addison shared with us that Madame G actually slapped a student in the face with her hand. He told us she yells at all the kids and is "mean".  I was horrified to hear this report and not sure what to do or think?  


The next day I ran into a girl in his class in one of the little grocery store  here that dot our neighborhood and I asked her what she thinks about this teacher?  She kept using the word "mechant" and "gifle" which means "wicked" and "slap".  I started to cry - what is wrong with this teacher - this Madame G, this school and do they even know about this?  What do the kids think and what goes through their minds when they see their friends 'hit?'  What kind of fear for learning is now being generated.  We know we are foreigners to this culture and can't go around muscling our way in as Americans with the answers of 'what is right and what is wrong.'  But this seemed to require 'some' type of action.'  But we were not sure what until it was clear the next day.  The next day Addison returned home and told us his friend was hit with a ruler in the face.  Addison's response to us was "In America - this person would go to jail for child abuse" - extreme or not with his comment - there is no question parents, school administration and/or law enforcement would be communicated to accordingly, and depending on the situation - action would certainly be taken!!  Here in Senegal it is hard to say or know. But certainly at this juncture - we could not sit by and do nothing.


So, we decided that it would be best to meet with the Directrice  first and tell her our concerns.  (Since we didn't know the relationship between these teaching colleagues - Madame S and Madame G., we thought it would be better to go direct - maybe that's why she's called "The Directrice").  However, when the main teacher (Madame S.) came to our house for the weekly tutoring session, Addison decided to share with her what he saw - it certainly was troubling him on some level.  Madame S's response simply stated (in French but translated to us by Addison) which was quite comforting and telling -  "She should not be doing that."  
At the end of it all - Manning had a very receptive meeting with the Directrice and was asked to write a letter detailing the facts and situation - which of course Manning obliged. It was evident she herself was troubled by it not only as the Directrice but as a parent herself (and was likely thinking she was relieved her children were actually attending a different French school in Dakar). I also made mention that if Madame S has any other reason to be out of the classroom - Madame G should not be left to her own with the kids. I think a point she had not considered - but realized now!

It's hard to know what kind of disciplinary or course of action if any will be taken by the school. We do think our comments were taken seriously  as after the latest tutoring session with Madame S, still in disbelief of what occurred during her absence - her final words to us about the incident were -  "Interdit! Interdit!"

And of course we're proud of Addison for speaking up to his teacher and finding the courage on his very own to voice his concerns for his fellow students and friends who do not deserve this kind of treatment.  Tres Bien!



Posted by A Year in Dakar at 4:13 PM 1 comment:
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Simply Stated...


in wrapping up our time here..













 






It was a grand adventure in the Sine-Saloum
Posted by A Year in Dakar at 2:12 PM 3 comments:
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They forgot the Muscadet ...


Our morning started off with a pirogue ride through the mangroves.


Thomas our local Senegalese guide and his partner, Ignace - who managed the navigation  had been working together for about 7 years. They work as a team because - as Thomas explained it - the guide wants to share his knowledge can't concentrate on the labyrinth of mangrove crossings at the same time - so he leaves the driving to his partner. For conditions like this, multitasking is not a requirement for the job.  In fact Thomas  had all the right qualities  - outgoing and informative - he was well suited for the job!   Having already arranged for the ride the day before - the lodge asked if we were okay including another person - Marie Jo - it helped cut the cost a bit yet it turned out to benefit us as well - she was French and spoke English so when Manning and I were a little uncertain about the translation she was there to step in. You'd think the boys would have helped but they charge a slight fee these days for their services.










Honestly - I wish I could remember all that he shared with us but it was lost to me since I did not write it down and was just enjoying the scenery around us and the relaxing nature of the ride.  At one point we stopped off and got a good close up view of mangrove root system including the incredible underground world of the oysters thriving below for cultivation, consumption and export by local oyster farmers.


(credit to: Julie London since I missed this shot)
 Thomas cut off two stalks without any of us thinking much about it.

 


Before we realized it we came to a wide stretch where  the Sine River and the Saloum River met and our guides worked their way towards a stretch of an island/sand bar.  Little did we know we were in for a big treat!
Ignace looks around for some help - oh you boys - you look like the kind that might want to help get this fire started.

Grilled Oysters - Here we Come
WOW

 Thinking about if he wants another - oui, je voudrais une autre s'il vous plaît 
 
 All I could say is that those oysters were oh so tasty - I could have stayed there having them grill us more oh so easily. But alas our time was coming to a close.. 





Hey wait a minute - as I discovered afterwards - on the lodges website writeup - one thing was missing   "you’ll set off to discover the mangrove and its fauna. You’ll call in at a deserted beach and taste the mangrove oysters opened on a wood fire accompanied by chilled Muscadet"  - next time we'll remember to bring our own ;+}



Posted by A Year in Dakar at 9:08 AM 2 comments:
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